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69. Finisterre and Muxia

My trip to Santiago was under a very good start. And
luck has left me even here in Santiago. Joss has received
visit by car from Belgium. This couple could
Johan and I ride to Finisterre and Muxia. In Finisterra I was
twice. Maybe that's why I was so touched Muxia. Muxia
is the alternative to Finisterre. The village is located about 30 km from Finisterre
away, is also facing the sea. Nevertheless, these places can
bad comparison. The special feature of Murxia
business, as the sea is a simple, beautiful church.
The church was built on the rocks. Around the church are more
rocks and large rocks that are washed by the roaring sea waves
. A beeindrckendes show ... And these forces of nature seem
this church to be able to harm it. In
contrary, the church itself stands as a rock in the surf.
This image has impressed me deeply. Such strong
places with large, natural charisma are very rare. A wonderful
(final) farewell gift from my trip.
The parting from my two friends Joss pilgrims and Johan at my
ahead. Them too I will remember always.

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68th Arrived - Ultreia!

After just three months I am now arrived once again in my beloved
Santiago. I sit freshly showered, but in the same
clothes in my local café for a Torta de Santiago and a
hot coffee. The Compostela I already gratefully received
. With my two friends from Sweden and Belgium
I'm going to go eat dinner now and visit tomorrow of course, the Pilgrims' Mass
.
missing at the moment me the words to write more about it. Probably
it is not necessary. Five hours later
: We celebrated the life and loads of food and drink
. Seafood all kinds, plus first-class wines
champagne. Everything you could wish for. As well as I've never eaten here
. Yes, Santiago not only satisfies the soul ....

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67th Last night in a 66th Albergue

Since I was the last time on the Camino was a lot of new, private
hostels have been opened. That night we spend even more in
of such private Albergue. They are usually twice as expensive as the public
Hostels (10 €). But they offer all the things you miss
often in the public hostel: enough space
properly functioning sanitation, good heating and a
professional design of the facility. You sleep well in
bunk beds, but the ambiance is better. Today's hostel is a real
Luxe Wedding mountains. Every detail is right and it seems almost too grand
. I understand that more and more pilgrims enter the private
Herb heirs the preference. Either upgrade the
public hostels, or they are increasingly shunned. Since playing
the market. The public hostels have a serious
get competition. I hope they accept this challenge.
What's? Come tomorrow I was in Santiago on. Then I can also
remain private hostel stolen. A proper hotel, it must be!

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This year, especially many "Light pilgrims" on the way to go
which the last 100 km from Sarria to Santiago on foot. They can be recognized
immediately. In general, they appear in groups and have no or only a small day pack
. Of course, one has spontaneously
the feeling that these are not "real" pilgrims, but who can say what
are true and false pilgrims. Are we not all pilgrims on this earth
? I like the "Light pilgrims" anyway enjoy warm,
if in two days as I Compostela (something like a pilgrim
diploma) in Santiago received.

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65th If there is no longer true in the head

Today I have to Palas de Rei, the last long stage (28 km) completed
. The day would end and would not because I wanted to bring this
stage just behind me. Joss is given similar
. Luckily me up until now has never happened before. A
undeceptive sign that I long to finally arrive in Santiago
. (The last three stages will only be about 20
km.) Bottom Days were holding pretty strict, especially
the weather was very unpredictable. Sometimes you realize this until
afterwards. Yes, "Tout est dans la tête" (Henri Jarni)

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64th Portomarin

It is too late to write much. All
asleep and the lights are extinguished. Everything is ok Good night!

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63rd The own rhythm

Yesterday I lived on my income, that means I'm running with my wet shoes
too fast and I caught some unpleasant promptly
blisters on my toes. This is not further
bad, but it takes a off track. You can tell then that something
no longer in balance, you lose your balance, the inner
balance because you have not complied with its own rhythm.
The inner rhythm is very subtle. Only when one has lost it
, we realize how important it is. Today the weather was surprisingly
temporarily better and I tried the
restore inner balance. At times I managed this
and now and then I thought: "It is now more then enough time that I arrived in Santiago
. In at least six days it is so far
. How do I am! At a hotel, the Parador on the Longterm
and to all my friends at home, on my wife Zita, our three children and
my little granddaughter Sophie, who know me will probably not
more.
the way, prove my old-fashioned plaster Scholl
much better than the super modern Compeedpflaster, which I bought in France

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62nd Snow - sometimes dia

even worse than yesterday. It has stormed all night and
the morning after breakfast it started to snow right. When we
us for a good two hours walking on a warm Kafi in a warm
Pub on the Alto de Pojo were happy, were we disappointed. The current
and thus the heater was turned out at the bar. None of
a fresh Kafi, instead, a subdued mood in the half dark and half
warm pickling. 'm Soaked and halbverfroren arrived in
Triacastela. Not a good day. Several locals said
it to direct "mal dia". Yes, the St. James can be hard and go to the
living.

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61st The Cebreiro has it all

The Cebreiro is the last major transition that have overcome the pilgrims until they
in Galicia, the "promised" land are. If
Cebreiro's done, you're almost at the goal, arrived in Santiago
. We had to earn the Cebreiro hard.
I can not complain about the weather, I had until now almost exclusively
good weather. But today it was a beastly weather. It has
it rained all day and blown. Two or three hours to endure
good, but if the rain lasts longer, it can be tedious and difficult
. With time, almost everything is wet. Both Joss
like John the day designated as the hardest
one during their whole pilgrimage. As Reward, we wanted to treat ourselves
a hotel but everything was beseetzt. With luck, we found
a family. Unfortunately, the clock at 23.00
heating is turned off. We need to attract tomorrow wet shoes ...

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60th Pilgrims boom - how much longer?

Camino I know the good and yet I could go this way and 10x
discover something new. Sometimes I'm amazed how much
alone in the last 3 - 4 years has changed. Especially
was a lot of construction, including new, Hostels and hostels for pilgrims, which
now compete with each other. Overall, the Camino in the villages
and cities, where he passes, a big growth spurt triggered
. Everybody wants now to make the pilgrims something
. How long this boom lasts well? This year - in
Jubilee -, 10 - 20% less pilgrims come to Spain
than last year. Perhaps many have thought it was in Spain in
this year anyway, too many pilgrims and have moved to other countries
. Our hostel in Rapperswil was this year
visited many more pilgrims. That would bestätgen this theory.
My theory: The Pilgrims boom will continue as more and more people
Feel that pilgrims is good for them, but there is a shift
give other pilgrim routes in other countries. (Quoted in Villafranca del Bierzo
)

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59th Companionship

It seems that we will arrive in a threesome together in about 10 days in
Santiago. One is John and does
Sweden. He is 54-year-old tour operator, and, before his pilgrimage
sold some of his companies. He stayed always in small
Hostels. Joss is fresh Agronomieingenieur retired from Belgium.
He's like me almost three months on the road. Companionship
form by chance on the Camino, if you need to Time on the same
stages on the road. In the beginning, we meet by chance several times
then meet up at a dinner and at some point it is easy
clear that you will eat each other. It is nice if
forming new friendships, without the
own autonomy is lost. Over time, we know each other very much and the
mutual consideration and assistance is increasing. Let's see if and how we arrive
three commonly in Santiago and whether these friendships
about the Camino will stand out. (
listed in Molinaseco)

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58th Rabanal del Camino

Twelve Years ago has settled a small Benedictine community of St.
Odilien. In addition to the old, in need of renovation
village church they have built their small little Klösterli
including a monastery shop. The monastery is called the San Salvador del Monte
Irago. The village church is now also
church. I am impressed that the Church is present at an important place of
Caminos and an old, almost dilapidated church
was inside revived. Every day at seven clock
a Mass is celebrated. Today's show has really touched me, maybe just
because the interior of the church in disrepair, and the
atmosphere in the packed church so warm, lively and genuine. The
half of the visitors were locals. Another great moment on the
Camino.

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57th Museo de los Caminos in Astorga

The Episcopal Palace of Astorga, Gaudí houses not a small
particularly well-designed museum, which I visit whenever I'm
here. A fine set of characters Jakob are on display that would have photographed
I always liked. This time I achieved this despite
photo ban. There is another reason why I visit this museum
repeated: The original of the Cruz de Ferro
is kept here. A very special cross!
Everyone in the pictures with which he means more or less much
. The positive images, which have been stored deep inside, are
for psychology resources images. For me, the Cruz de Ferro
such a picture. The most beautiful cross that I have ever seen.
It is a very simple, rather small iron cross, the top of a
about 6 m high, not quite straight rod was affixed. The rod
is surrounded by a large cairn on the Rabanalpass (which I will pass on
tomorrow). Unfortunately, this old bar was before about
10 years, saw off malicious. The leaders now have a geometric
thick wooden pole with an iron core as a replacement
used and thus the Cruz de Ferro took his ease.
other words, I saved picture does not match the
current state of the Cruz de Ferro. But I will keep my old
image. In the museum I see at least the original of the Cross.
How many thousands have in the past centuries at the foot of this cross
on a stone cairn to their concerns and needs
put down?

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56th San Martin

My cold is not bad and the tedious, boring
stages are thankfully over.
Today it went in the (unheated) Hostel very worldly to and fro.
We watched the match Real Madrid vs Milan on TV.
It's unbelievable, has great significance of football in Spain
. My enthusiasm for the Tschutten remains limited. The second
Half the time I spent in bed.

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55th LEÓN

Bin verkältet fixed and semi-ill. Nevertheless, with Joss from Belgium and Sweden
Johann eaten out good supper ... with plenty of wine.

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54th In Mansilla de las Mullah

between Sahagun un Mansilla - on a fairly
straight line from about 50 km in length - was about ten years ago built next to a little-used road
a special pilgrimage, which is lined with plane trees of about
5000. I still remember how I had once
annoyed because I felt we should not take the Meseta
their sparseness. The trees were a foreign body in
this landscape. In the meantime, the trees become a part
already quite large shade and blend in well with the
LANDSCAPE. Nevertheless, the whole track is very boring.
hour, even for days going from tree to tree is not very funny
. Tomorrow I'm in León. The way naturally and
varied. And in two weeks, I am in Santiago. Ultreia!

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53rd Joy and sorrow

Joy and sorrow are often close together. Today I have reached
news from home. Good and bad. The joyful message
: A 70-year-old widower from our friends has a
found new life partner. I do not begrudge him from the heart. The
bad messages, even today: A good friend who was with me
on the Camino de Santiago, is plunged into a severe psychological crisis
and my brother in law is a Hinblutung in intensive care. Fortunately
are thoughts and feelings, positive and negative, very
change changeable, volatile, and usually in kuzer time.
So we would do well to exercise our good and bad thoughts
and to develop compassion, but they all take to
important. Todo se pasa (all passes) the holy
Teresa of Avila said succinctly on the subject.
(listed in the hostel of Bercianos)

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52nd Once again, rain and strong winds

by Carrión de los Condes and Calzadilla de la Cueza is 17 km.
The gravel road that connects these two places, is dead straight.
Four hours in the rain and wind resistant this route to travel to
is also a pilgrim eroded not enjoyable, but
tedious work. These are the hard times on the Camio that
remain spared no one. Jetzt, wo ich in der geheizten Beiz in
Terradillos de los Templarios sitze, bin ich erleichtert, diese Etappe
heil und ganz überstanden zu haben. The Camino is just not a
walk, but from time to time also suffering. Probably
there are no deep feelings of happiness without that you have also suffered.
The Camino is both close to each other, but the happiness
are with me more often.

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51st Rain in Carrion de los Condes

I wanted to write something today from bad weather and the suffering
pilgrims, but the three Augustinian sisters
kept in the hostel so impressive devotion, that I prefer
here reproduces the text in the center the short prayer was
:
No one was yesterday,
No one goes today, tomorrow

no one will go to God
the same way, the
I go.
God has always used for every
People a new ray of sunshine

and a new way.
(León Felipe)
At the end of prayers, blessed the Mother Superior every pilgrim. She made each and every
a cross on his forehead and put his / her hands
on the head. To work for me a good example can be stored in an open manner
credible witness, without
missionary.

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50th Boadilla del Camino

Sometimes people ask me: "What brings you to repeatedly go to the
Camino?" I could to each other on various levels
Answer. For this very long, I am inclined Camino
primarily a response: "I have this year on the Camino
learned to go back." That to me is a great gift , which
has not just happened. I had to train hard for it.
why I also feel they deserve this gift. Today
I can get back-if you must or I have a mind -
large distances quickly, easily and without a limp cover. The
fills me with great joy. A matter of course it is not
. Today was one of those days where I did out of pure lust a large part
completed the stage very quickly. I am as well as one of the first
arrived at Refugio Boadilla. Almost the same again.

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49th By the Meseta to Hontanas

The decision was correct. I enjoyed the Meseta
with all your senses. The plateau is in this season and in the clear weather
particularly impressive. I think I would have missed the fellow pilgrims
if I "be sheared off" the bus would be.
the familiarity of the pilgrims take each other from day to day. From Burgos
all pilgrims have only one goal: Santiago. So beautiful!

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48th BURGOS

tomorrow I wanted to go to Santo Domingo de Silos,
but it is too far away and with the public transport almost impossible to achieve. Then I wanted
between Burgos and Leon take the bus, but I can not
. I have a bad feeling about it, because there are actually
a compelling reason to do so. I think it is better to go the way
together with the other pilgrims to the end. Turn a day of rest
I do not like. The essentials of Burgos
I know. The pilgrimage takes it further. He has no home.

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47th Of the fellow pilgrims

There are more people in this Season on the road than I thought I
. One finds, however, ample space in the hostels. In Aces, where
today I spent the night, there are 4 pilgrims' hostels, which compete against each other
. Although I still own pilgrimage, and not otherwise contact
am very hungry, you know over time many of the fellow pilgrims /
inside. As the newly retired agronomist engineer from Belgium,
is already about the same length as I go ... or the 60 - year-old German
, the last 4 years living on the Camino (!). In the summer he works as
Hospitalero the rest of the year is he on the way,
at the moment with a 25-year-old Japanese woman .... or the family from
South Korea, for the means of the Camino a permanent Überfoderung
... or the 31-year-old from Hungary, with two runs Friday
bags loose and fast ... or the unemployed
Portuguese who is traveling with no money and hopes to find it on the
Camino a job to ... and Beni, the Americans with
of light weight equipment, Montpellier every few days since I
meet again by chance ... All these and other fellow pilgrims
grow on you. The common way is much more unifying than I myself
sometimes disavowed. to run

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46th Tired

all day against the violent wind, tired. displayed on a small town before
Villafranca Montes de Oca is a small hostel with
good food. Although it is only 21.10 clock, but I'm going
like to sleep. Good night!

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45th Hospital of St. John the Baptist in Grañon

Grañón is a small village about 6 km from Santo Domingo de la Calzada
. The hostel is located in the church, in the cultivated areas
the parish. For the half-board price is not a fixed
required. The Donativoprinzip (voluntary donation) was here
even expanded. On the inside the lid of the box is always open
money: "Give what you can do or take what you need."
Does not seem to work well. The priest always eats dinner
with the pilgrims. It is one of the few hostels that is the
all year. An experience to be here!
The atmosphere in the old walls is very special. The two
Hospitaleras have offered a prayer after dinner in the church
that was mitgefeiert by all pilgrims. The Lord's Prayer
we prayed simultaneously in at least six different languages
. These are unforgettable moments.